Tempus Fugit ! It's time again for the Geneva International Fine Watch-Making Exposition (SIHH) organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, where Switzerland's Richemont Group showcases the most glittering jewels in their corporate crown. Foundation President Fabienne Lupo gathered Sixteen Maisons under one glamorous roof at the Palexpo Convention Center to welcome this year's watch-making professionals and to enumerate time for the 2013 season through their creativity and imagination.
Invited guests included big-name personalities such as Olympic Champion Yohan Blake at Richard Mille, sports legends Luis Figo, Zinedine Zidane & Boris Becker, singer Jay Kay, actors Jean Reno, Eric Dane, Ewan McGregor & Kevin Spacey joined top fashion models Karolina Kurkova & Adriana Lima at IWC's 'Race Night'. Actress Olivia Palermo joined Montblanc, among the many other leaders, rainmakers and luminaries of the international business and social scenes. It would, therefore be, forgivable if you perhaps lost sight of the SIHH's raison d'être which, this year more than ever, seems to be looking eastward.
After successfully passing through a gauntlet of metal detectors, the 'China Press' Entrance was the most prominent indication of this eastern trend as guests arrived at the main reception hall, to be greeted by white-gloved doormen and be ushered to one of the fifteen immaculately-styled welcome hostesses to collect their photo ID badge. With a charming "Bienvenue" and a smile, we were guided to a final automated turnstile where our badge, still warm, was scanned and green-lit for entry. We were in!
It was immediately obvious that this year's guest list was a truly international affair as the halls were brimming with guests conversing in hushed whispers in Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic. An army of Brand Ambassadors expertly profiled star pieces to an eager audience of buyers and journalists while spiels on complications, jewels and innovative 'firsts' were made with slick conviction. There seems to be absolutely no waning in sight for the almost insatiable appetite for new products within the industry. Could this be hailing a tide change and a market transition from West to East? Given the dramatic shift in focus, it would certainly seem so.
A strong sense of culture was also evident and built directly into the event through the 'Conceptual Watch Photography' Exhibition hosted by Plaza Magazine, the 'Arts, Crafts & Design' Project patroned by Vacheron Constantin and 'The Mastery of Time' Travelling Museum curated by expert historian Dominique Fléchon. The inclusion of such interesting and meaningful exhibits serves to reinforce the long and honorable place the keeping of time has held in our collective hearts for centuries.
Of particular note was Cartier's presence, encompassing an entire corner of the exposition. On display were not only their unique masterpieces of watch and fine jewelry-making expertise, but, interestingly, a time-lined retrospective of their horloges mystérieuses. Was this veiled reinforcement of their historic contribution to timekeeping done for the sole benefit of connoisseurs, or, was it a more deliberate and provocative cape in emblematic red waved in front of an Asian bull? Pessimists might say maybe, realists like me will say yes; most certainly.
With typical Parisian flair, Van Cleef & Arpels welcomed its guests through wide open two-storey wrought iron gates brought directly from Place Vendôme. We were further enticed to enter by statuesque models dripping in diamonds as we slowly discovered a decoupage flock of butterflies triumphantly surrounding their 'Poetic Symphony Complication' Collection.
Montblanc shone brightly in crisp Swiss whiteness contrastingly punctuated by several contemporary art installations prominently displayed throughout their pavilion. It is an open secret that Asian Art, in particular, Asian Contemporary Art has had its awakening in the past few years with gallerists and collectors scrambling to respond to demand. Aligning such a traditional Swiss product with the avant-garde shows a shrewd understanding of positioning brand image where it is now most valuable.
Taking brand image to new heights, Roger Dubuis opted to install a giant 50-foot version of Geneva's Golden Eagle, talons grasping the Keys of the City. Its VIP guests, including actor Gerard Butler, were entertained by a spectacular show of jugglers, dancers and acrobats, all in the warm drawing room of their luxurious medieval castle. This positioning of 'Brand Geneva' is a valuable asset, heavily leveraged particularly following the recent Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève for which all fine watch making manufacturers are eligible. Receiving accolades from within your own industry can carry just as much punch as beating a sales forecast and paves the way for more sustainable growth.
The succulent scents of braised beef wafting through the halls signaled that round two was about to begin. Comfortably seated at a table mostly populated by Getty Images photographers who had recently wrapped up Milan Fashion Week, it was difficult not to overhear the conversation on who was taking the next assignment in Hong Kong or who missed out on that shoot in Singapore. It seems that everyone is on point to Asia and clearly, the Champagne toasts from my fellow diners were much more than mere toasts, but the cementing of many a new found friendship. Surely, this was a business lunch no one was willing to miss.
There are, however, great challenges facing this industry, both from within its own ranks as well as external obstacles like foreign trade restrictions in many countries. Swatch Group's recent purchase of Harry Winston and it's current legal imbroglio concerning the reassertion of their de-facto monopoly in balance-spring production, has sparked an international hunt for suppliers in an ever-dwindling pool of expertise. Tax-minded governments are evermore levying prohibitive luxury tax-style legislation to boost revenue. It remains to be seen how these and other threats will define the future market.
SIHH Week naturally spawned parallel events, all taking advantage of the influx of deep pockets and specialized expertise into Geneva's luxury hotels and restaurants. High end retailer Les Ambassadeurs hosted a stunning 'Four Seasons' Cocktail where they showcased top international brands such as Bovet, Franck Muller and Ulysse Nardin to an admiring well-heeled crowd happily enjoying live music, canapés and cocktails.
Those who thought sunset signaled the end of the day were in for an unexpected delight. 'The Boat' which was chartered by SIHH and docked lakeside, was available as a private venue where invitees could 'meet & greet' long into the morning hours surrounded by classic 1950's black & white photographs supplied by the iconic Parisian Studio Harcourt; round three.
It was long ago that the Roman Poet Virgil said: Sed fugit interea fugit irreparabile tempus, singula dum capti circumvectamur amore, meaning "Time flees irretrievably, while we wander around, prisoners of our love of detail." - How appropriate that we, over two millennia later, are still prisoners of time and captivated by exquisite detail. May this captivation continue to spread throughout the world, wherever we may be.
J. William Tavelli is a Contributing Editor at Geneva Business News.
Suggested further reading:
Le Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie toujours plébiscité
